Dr Beths Afghanistan Blog...(A doctors life in the Red and Green life machine..) 20 Nov

Sat 20^th Nov – Sun 21^st am - Two torrents today – sultanas and casualties

A flood of parcels today; something to do with a backlog as trucks couldn’t pass through Pakistan during Eid, and most definitely not the RAF’s fault, the RAF assures me. ....and a torrent of Christmas related items fell out of brown paper packaging; even my usually restrained (until December) family didn’t disappoint with the traditional advent calendar in card size. But the best present was of course the biggest, a welly boot box size, and the awe of all jealous onlookers. Yet somehow so light it could only possibly contain candy floss. After much ripping and then tunnelling through copious amount of polystyrene I found 7, admitted perfectly preserved, cereal bars. Thank You so much Granny, much enjoyed.

The casualties however came first; two at a time in the morning and then three or four; smattered across the nationalities and fighting parties; requiring a variety of measures from resuscitation via early surgery to stabilisation and transfer to CT, to just common sense reassurance and slow time management. The team works; staff are flexible in their uses when needs must, and it is a happy calm team that welcomes every casualty. To be able to be the first to greet and reassure the awake patient whilst assessing their injuries, and then to follow their care through imaging, disappear while they sleep for surgery, and then be there to provide ongoing care and analgesia when they wake is the biggest privilege. Often I get to top it off by speaking with the family when they are unable to answer the concerned questions through either emotion or uncertainty.

All that is then left is the paperwork scenario that surrounds a quick departure to home country when required. In honesty, the UK system is awesome; the US is harder but their lines of communications are rather different and I do think of Bastion as the Centre of the Universe forgetting their main effort in Kandahar, Kabul, Bagram and many others! Always comes through no matter what the obstacles en route.

Then comes the night shift – very different spectrum of injuries – the 24hr charity football match provided 3 ankles injuries all luckily soft tissue, but 3 soldiers confined to desk work for week or two; yet the charity events are great for morale and seen as a way of ‘doing their bit’ – as if they need prove anymore! And then the lower priorities fly at night....small fragment wounds, twisted ankles, mild concussions, abdominal pain, skin infections and the wide spectrum of non-battle afflictions common in this adverse environment. Keeps me and my colleagues on our toes at least!

Dr Beths Afghanistan Blog...(A doctors life in the Red and Green life machine..) 16 nov

Shouldn’t come in early....even to sit around and eat breakfast, not if I want to get anything of my own done, or a quiet time; it’s busy and there are questions to be answered, and even if the nursing staff do apologise beforehand, it still gets my mind moving and it’s in my face. Patients need attention too, and they do; that’s probably what I do best so I get involved, and the only thing that becomes prioritised is my breakfast, can’t do without. A regular diet of All Bran or Porridge Oats and dried fruit, the latter two lovingly sent by family, knowing my peculiarities. My other foible is appropriating boiled eggs from the unused Halal breakfasts, which rather surprisingly consist of 2 x boiled eggs, a fried egg, some hash browns, kinda French toast and a pancake....not quite sure what they make of it, but I certainly found a longterm Afghan resident eating a big bowl of walnuts for breakfast today instead. They are not averse to my coke cans though; having finally got frustrated with my cans infrequently disappearing from the fridge, assuming unrealising staff had taken (given that the US ‘chowhouse’ contains fridges of free soft drinks in addition to icecream,) I decided to label my coke – 10 minutes later two fathers accompanying recovering children were engrossed in CBeebies with a labelled coke on the side!

Local bombmakers and snipers appear to have made the pilgrimage as the Haj festival has been relatively quiet so far; tell that to the young man who is recovering after being shot in the abdomen yesterday; but maybe he’s lucky cause it was the third rate sniper on the ground instead.

Hence I am able to enjoy some of the last sunshine, and learn more about Star Wars than maybe I ever wanted to - surrounded by men of obsession tendencies – an element of which seems to be required to be a good surgeon.

Dr Beths Afghanistan Blog...(A doctors life in the Red and Green life machine..)

D day -1 (getting ready to deploy)

On the eve our mission to get to Bastion, via a number of ‘undisclosed’ stops. Each flight carries the potential of mechanical setback pre and in-flight, and each stop is of undetermined length...I hear there is a daily unpredictable risk that the metal cargo door will expand so much in the heat on the runway that it will not shut, so we sit around until the temperature drops!

As a hospital we have received a glowing green light, at least procedurally; we have a massive conglomeration of personnel from tri-service and multinational (US & UK anyway) backgrounds who have achieved some degree of unity within 72hrs; we just need to ensure this survives contact with the enemy, our enemy being casualties coming through the door. Hard to glean too much about the personalities, strengths and abilities of the staff with whom I will work when we treat fake patients, certainly not my forte. I do hope that they have learnt a little about me though, enough to support my weaknesses and push me where I require it, but enough to know that I will work as hard as is required and remain loyal to them and my patients.

Me, I’m nervous; anxious is probably a better word. Not about my safety (although I do wish people would stop asking that stupid question of my mother, insensitive springs to mind); but anxious about my ability both to do the job as well as I want to, & to cope mentally with the sight of grown men crying or alternatively being more stoic than I am when faced with their own worst nightmare. No point wasting either energy or sleep worrying now though, will deal when it occurs and pack some herbal sleeping tablets since red wine won’t be available to me. It still is though, so here’s to a last Thai meal and a tasty bottle.

3 Weeks into tour...

So how to summarise these first three and a significant 24hrs more - workload massively outstrips my distorted perception of time. It has flown by, some in a semi-wakeful haze, and other images so much more focused; the red amongst so much sandy camouflage; the dark skins of the locals and the cries of a sad series of children surrounded by a bunch of scissor and stethoscope wielding white strangers working in a well practised routine.

Sleep is a luxury, and in my case, jealously guarded from crap, but so often interrupted by necessity or just spending time chatting with both patients and colleagues, even interrupted for exercise; all of which ensure I retain my sanity. Sugar however is no luxury; we are very well looked after for easy snacks foods, much of it care of our embedded US colleagues; the rest by family! My craving is porridge, nuts, protein and anything other than bloody cheese baguettes for lunch; never for such an longtime have I ever been so incarcerated by my vegetarianism! But I have no inclination to give myself any wiggle room; it no longer appeals in any shape or form. Raisin bakes however, I can thoroughly recommend, oh and Clif bars!

An endless row of changing young USMC faces sit facing blue screens behind which sit the unchanging detainees ostensibly awaiting further medical attention until they fit the very high standards set by the US detention facility, being mobile without the aid of crutches seems a high bar to set to a detainee who has a high hindquarter amputation......we await judicial process. Where I was going with this train of thought is that it is those young guards who provide the Clif bars generously, and gorge themselves on the only fast food at Bastion (beside the hospital) pizza. Usually these USMC guards have recently been through the hospital with a minor injury or illness and are given this role as ‘Light Duties’/recovery time; or as one marine told me ‘everyday is one more day i get to keep my legs’. There is no suitable answer to that. The few British guards don’t bring food but they do make cups of tea, generous with their time and smiles instead, the ward staff, in turn, are liberal with their kit-kats.

I had made a few notes for the first few days of this deployment that I thought might spur me into memory of each day and act as sources of inspiration for typing; how wrong, they sound bland as black and white facts. However 1 tale still appeals – the oft quoted communication barrier between the Americans and ourselves; a US surgeon requested in post op notes that the patient who had just been through major bowel surgery should be on a ‘sips and chips regime’, so the nurses obediently fed said patient with the cookhouse chips washed down with sips of water, against their better judgement i hasten to add. Only on ward round, when the patient had wolfed the offered chips down, was it realised that the intent had been chips of ice. The lady in question did however recover very well but lost no weight.

A Week in Chamonix with Exped member Chris Hare

Chamonix 18-26 May 2010

I was recently asked to help out 14 Signal Regiment with their planned adventure training week following their return from Afghanistan.

For the duration of the exercise we stayed in a place near Chamonix in the French Alps called 'Les Contamines', situated in the St Gervais valley.

My role on this exercise was to take 2 groups each day to the local Via Ferrata, and to introduce them to the sport of Via Ferrata, how to carry it out and to take them along a 4 hour AD+ ‘Via ferrata - 'Curalla’ a 400m long route near Plateau D’Assy.

All in all I took 42 people along this route. This was a hard week, carrying it out twice a day swapping groups after lunch, whilst the other group then climbed at Les Gailands crag in Chamonix.

In Chamonix the snow level was very low (2000m) it had apparently snowed there at the start of May, making a lot of climbing routes around the area hard to undertake. (All crevasses were covered). The Via ferrata season started at the start of May, so was an ideal activity to carry out.

Via Ferrara is a sport where there is a route which is placed along a vertical rock face, where challenging moves are set, making the route more challenging and fun; these moves could be through overhangs, very exposed ledges and so on. On this particular route there were 3 planks of wood to cross at over 200m high, a 10m 2-line wire bridge and a scary 25m 3-line wire bridge.

The weather for the whole week was fantastic, by the end of the week the snow level had risen to 2500m. On the last day whilst swapping over the groups, I decided to have a go at a route at Les Gailands. There is a very famous overhang set in the middle of the crag. The route is graded at 5c+ and is a very enjoyable route, with an impressive but bold move over the overhang. I managed to climb this route 'in one', not even resting below the overhang, which I was very impressed with.

It was a fantastic 10 days in the Alps with a great bunch of people. Although I did the same route over 10 times, each time there was something different I got from that route, with many people being very scared to retreat off the route to help someone.

Whilst on the route, I learnt and concentrated on good placement of my centre of gravity, this giving me more core strength and giving me more balance as I progressed around the route.

I look forward to my next outing to the Alps this Aug.

Enjoy

Chris Hare

Everest Base Camp Trek

Bill Tillman, the enigmatic explorer and mountaineer led the first commercial trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC) in 1952, which has since become a ‘right of passage’ for the many thousands of adventurous trekkers who regularly hike the 92km round trip from Lukla to Gorak Shep in the Nepalese Khumbu Valley to marvel at the breath-taking views and tread the hallowed ground that is EBC, now known throughout the world as the Everest Base Camp Trek.

Mount Everest was first climbed in 1953 by the much revered and celebrated pioneers of high altitude mountaineering: Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa. The mountain has captivated the hearts and minds of climbers and trekkers throughout the World ever since, and will continue to do so for a very long time to come.

Hilary and Norgay’s legacy has lived on in the Everest region ever since that momentous first ascent in the form of countless educational, medical and recreational facilities, along with numerous other projects and schemes all funded by their ‘Himalayan Trust’ charity, a payback for the joy and pleasure that Mt Everest and the Himalayan people gave to them during their many visits to the region. Everest remains the jewel of high altitude mountaineering and is still the ultimate challenge for the hundreds of would be summiteers who attempt to scale its grandiose slopes each year in pursuit of the ultimate prize, and the lasting admiration that success invariably brings.

To trek to EBC is in itself an awesome experience. It takes you into the heart of the Himalayan massive, a journey that hundreds of trekkers make daily during the pre and post monsoon trekking seasons. The EBC starts at the relatively modest altitude of 2850m at the small, but always busy, Lukla airport, and goes to the dangerously ‘high altitude’ destination of ‘Gorak Shep’, which is the final primitive outpost on the Base Camp trek before the two plum objectives of EBC and the lofty viewpoint of Kala Patthar at 5540m are reached. It passes through lush valleys and high mountain passes before eventually arriving at the ever-changing beauty of the Khumbu Valley, with its towering snow and ice capped summits, and its expansive glaciers, which carve through the landscape like icy dragons as they force their way between the soaring summits of the Mount Everest (Sagarmatha to the locals) National Park.

Most ‘first time’ trekkers to the Mt Everest National Park follow the same well-practised and relatively safe routine of a slow and gentle acclimatisation plan that takes approximately 7-8 days of upwards trekking before making the high mountain pilgrimage to EBC and the energetic and breath sapping climb up to Kala Patthar at 5540m, before commencing the return journey back to Lukla, and Kathmandu in a spritely 5 days or so, eager to return to comparative civilisation and the reward of a hot shower and a well deserved celebratory meal and beer or two.

Whilst the majority of trekkers complete this hike with little more than an inconvenient ‘high altitude’ headache, the dangers should not be taken lightly, and without a robust acclimatisation programme and good sanitary discipline, numerous trekkers still succumb every year to the ever present dangers of ‘Acute Mountain Sickness’ (AMS), and the nemesis of all adventure trekkers in developing countries: diarrhoea and vomiting! Both of these illnesses can be prevented with a little knowledge, and constant vigilance to personal hygiene and diet throughout the trek.

Those ambitious outdoor enthusiasts with aspirations to the longer and more adventurous high altitude treks and trails should find EBC a very rewarding challenge with a real sense of achievement despite its justifiable popularity and relative ease of access. Using the unique Nepalese institution of the ‘Tea House Lodge’, trekkers can travel light and enjoy the great hospitality and company of other trekkers that the ‘Tea House’ culture brings.

No specialist clothing or equipment is required for the EBC Trek, although a good down or synthetic jacket will afford a degree of added comfort during those chilly evenings and morning periods before the sun clears the mountain ridges, and additionally whilst enjoying the views from Kala Patthar and EBC, additionally a good 4-season sleeping bag will be required to ensure a comfortable night's sleep, especially when higher up the Khumbu Valley.

Most Tea Houses offer a full board service with hot showers, shop facilities, laundry, Internet and telephone readily available, albeit at a premium.

How hard is it? - Trekkers should be capable of walking for 6-7 hours over undulating terrain on a variety of surfaces in varying temperatures at altitude, although most people with regular UK hill walking experience will have little difficulty in completing the trek.

This article was brought to you courtesy of www.impadventures.com as part of a charity trek in aid of the Veteran’s charity Help for Heroes.

In 2012 a group of ex-service personnel led by Damon Blackband of Imp Adventures will be attempting to climb Mt Everest via the notoriously difficult North Ridge in aid of the Help for Heroes charity. To find out more about this attempt and to offer support please visit www.everest4heroes.com  

Article for Army Air Corps Journal / Newsletter

What is your motivation for this expedition?

 

In 1985 I joined the Army on ‘a spur of the moment’ decision, telling my friends that I would see them in a few years; not one to lose face I stuck to my word and ended up serving for 23 years in the Army Air Corps.  Everest has become that next great challenge.

 

I have climbed all over the world both during my Army days and in the 2+ years following, I have made many trusted friends whilst dangling from the end of a rope on far flung mountains, and I have also met and lost some great friends on military manoeuvres, operations and training.  My motivation for climbing Mt Everest is primarily to raise awareness and money to help those less fortunate than myself, those who have been spared immortality and are instead climbing notional mountains every day whilst overcoming the physical and psychological scars of war. 

 

In addition to my expeditions primary objective I also have a personal, implied and actual responsibility to ensure that my fantastic team of mountaineering colleagues are best prepared, equipped, and led to the top of the world in 2012. And, their partners and loved ones are confident in the team's ability and in my leadership skills in ensuring that we all return from the Death Zone, triumphant, and as a stronger and wiser and fulfilled team, happy in the knowledge that our efforts will make other veteran's lives that much better on their long road to recovery.

 

Who is in the team?

To climb serious mountains takes serious people, people you trust, respect and who you know will deliver the goods when needed, people who will not falter, people who put the teams needs before their own, and will always be prepared to go that extra mile when called upon.

During my uniformed service I came across such people, and for several years we climbed together throughout the world, learning each other’s strengths and weaknesses, sharing danger, hardship and triumph in equal measure. My team have won their place on the expedition by demonstrating the qualities required to climb the highest mountain in the world.

 

The team is as follows:

 

a. Expedition Leader  - Damon Blackband (Ex AAC Warrant Officer, Avn Crewman Instructor, now Mountain Guide)

 

b. Expedition 2ic – Phil ‘Darby’ Allen (Ex RM Lynx Pilot)

 

c. Anne McCollum - Base Camp Manager - Expedition risk management and safety consultant for schools and experiential education programs.

 

d. Base Camp Logistics Manager – Howard Floyd (Ex AAC Officer and Apache Flying Standards Instructor)

 

e. Beth Hall-Thompson – (Ex RAMC Officer / Doctor)

 

f. Chris Hare – (Ex REME SNCO Aircraft Technician)

 

g. Dan Loxton – (Ex AAC Officer, Apache Pilot now RAF SAR Pilot)

 

h. Guy Davies – (AGC SPS Officer)

 

i. Andy McKintyre – (Ex AAC Warrant Officer Lynx Pilot now Police Pilot)

 

j. Chris Rhodes – (Professional Mountain Leader)

 

 

What objectives have you set yourself?

 

The team have set themselves some essential objectives and also some demanding objectives.  The priority of the team is to ensure that we are all suitable trained, equipped and prepared for the hardships involved in climbing a 5-mile high mountain in temperatures as low as minus 60 degrees along with the other associated risks involved with climbing at extreme altitudes in the Death Zone.

 

Our hardest objective, however, will be the delicate task of raising over 200k for the Veteran’s charity Help for Heroes!

 

 

How are you going to achieve them? | How can the public support

 

In order to accomplish our goal it will take a lot of planning and brain- storming, after all, we are doing nothing new, nothing ground breaking and nothing special.  What we are doing though, is ‘doing' it ourselves!  We are planning, training and fund raising ourselves, our efforts, our plans, our training and our decisions. 

 

We have drawn up a plan that will see the entire team share the responsibility of the whole expeditions myriad of tasks.

 

We started the ball rolling in Oct 2009, gaining the support of a fantastic web design company to highlight our cause and to allow us access to the World Wide Web and all of the benefits that that brings.

 

Our next objective was to finalize the team, this we managed over the following few months and we have now a first class team, all capable of standing on the top of the world.  We also secured the support and guidance of our first choice Patron; Sir Christian Bonington CBE, an ideal mentor and figurehead.

 

The next phase of our plan was to develop our marketing, media and publicity campaign, this is centered around our interactive website, here people can view, read and hear about our cause and make online donations and leave messages of support and remembrance as desired.  Our media campaign also features a traveling road show, which will be traveling the length and breadth of Britain during the following two years, bringing our cause to the entire nation.

 

We are also contacting various other businesses and industries asking for support and help, these include, Radio, TV, the Press and a whole number of likely sponsorship enterprises.

 

In addition to our fund raising activities the team are all upping their personal training and mountaineering activities, including the following planned training meets:

 

Aug/Sep 2010 – Alpine meet in European Alps, here the team will spend ten days climbing a number of demanding routes and ridges including a planned bivouac near the summit of Mont Blanc and an attempt of the Matterhorn’s ‘Hornli Ridge’.

 

Oct 2011 will see the team conduct its final ‘testing’ expedition where an attempt on Mt Pumori in the Himalayas will be the objective, a 7000m + peak and an ideal opportunity to test out the expeditions logistics, equipment and procedures, not to mention spending some time on a High Altitude Himalayan peak overlooking Mt Everest.

 

In addition to the above tasks the team are also all involved in the delivery of some exciting charity challenges throughout the next two years, these include: Everest 4 Heroes fund raising charity attempts on the ‘National 3 Peaks’; Mt Kilimanjaro, Everest Base Camp and the classic ‘London to Paris’ cycle challenge to name but a few. 

 

Well wishers and fund raisers wishing to help the team raise money for our cause can join us on any of these advertised challenges by logging on to the expedition website www.everest4heroes.com and follow the online links.  Or they can simply support us in our challenge by buying a ‘foot or more of Everest’ for £5 a foot and ensure that they help us achieve our ambitious goal of raising over 200k for Help for Heroes.

 

What training are you doing? 

With regards to training I am personally putting in as much training as physically possible, with running my own outdoor pursuits company; Imp Adventures and running three triathlons this year, interspersed with mountaineering trips and challenges to Vietnam, Cambodia, Peru, Argentina, China, Nepal and Tanzania. I would say that this year is rather busy already!

 

How are you going to plan the trip?

 

The plan for climbing Mt Everest from the Tibetan side via the difficult North Ridge is clearly explained on the expedition website www.everest4heroes.com, however, it follows a prolonged period of acclimatization where numerous progressive trips will be made up and down the mountain stocking each of our three high camps above Advanced Base camp until we are all suitably acclimatized and prepared as we can possibly be before mounting an attempt on the summit, weather allowing.

 

How much of the money that you raise will go on the expedition itself?

Difficult question, we would all like to give every penny that we raise to Help for Heroes, unfortunately short of one of the team winning the lottery or an oil tycoon underwriting the expedition we are going to have to use some of the money raised to pay for vital trip expenses.  The team's plan is to try and gain support and sponsorship for all of our essential costs, flights, tents, clothing and equipment etc etc, the more support and generosity we receive will ensure that the majority of our fund raising goes directly to service veterans, leaving only essential costs such as permit fees being taken out of monies raised.  The team are also funding virtually all of the training expenses themselves, making this a very big commitment for all concerned indeed.

 

Have any of the team climbed in Nepal before?

Several of the team have climbed and trekked in Nepal before, including: Darby, Beth, Guy, both Chris’s, and myself.  Beth spent time working as the Everest Base Camp Doctor in 2007 and Darby and myself trekked to over 5500m in 2010, with the others having climbed and trekked on Mera Peak, Island Peak and classic treks such as the Annapurna Sanctuary and Everest Base Camp treks.

 

How do you think extreme altitude and harsh conditions will affect you?

 

For those interested in the effects of altitude, Dr Beth as put together a few interesting articles on altitude-related problems on the expedition website www.everest4heroes.com. Altitude takes no prisoners, everyone will suffer at some stage from altitude-related illnesses, whether it be cold injuries or more serious cases of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).  The best prevention is avoidance by education, and we are all making it a priority to learn as mush as we can about travel at altitude so as to alleviate the chances of altitude-related illnesses.

 

What do your partners think about this?

 

After many years of leaving our partners behind whilst we deployed in our old ‘green and black’ outfits, we have now decided to include the Mountaineering ‘WAGS’ on as much of our training as possible.  This includes bringing along our partners and families to the European Alps to join in when possible, and during the actual climb on Everest’s North Ridge to visit Base Camp, coinciding with our hopeful summit return.

 

What is the website address?

For more information please visit www.everest4heroes.com or email myself Damon Blackband at damon@everest4heroes.com or call me on 07768 608914 to discuss any related issues or sponsorship opportunities.

 

This will be the achievement of a lifetime: how will you wind down afterwards?

By hopefully marrying my Fiancée Kathryn at Everest’s base camp and having the biggest mountaineering ‘ging gang gooly’ that Everest Base Camp as ever seen, complete with white down jackets, and Howard Floyd serenading the bride on his trusty travel guitar.

 

Do you have any plans after Everest?

 

World peace and to work with children and animals…or simply to seize every opportunity and continue on a lifetime of opportunities well taken!

Cross Fell Charity Challenge

Cross Fell is the highest point in the Pennines at 893m in altitude. It is located at the northern end of the Pennine moors and has extensive views of the Lake District, the west coast and also the east coast. The southern uplands of Scotland and the Cheviots can also be seen from here

The Pennine Way goes over Cross Fell from Dufton via Great Dunn Fell to Garrigill and Alston.

Snow has been known to lie on Cross Fell for up to 140 days a year.

Three of England's major rivers rise near to the summit - the Tyne, the Tees and the Wear.

In times gone by Cross Fell was associated with demons and was often known as the "Fiends Fell", possibly because of the great wind it can produce in the valley of the Eden to its west. Known as the Helm Wind, this fierce gale of hurricane proportions, can strike most unexpectedly during the spring.

On Saturday 13 March two fantastic friends of mine; Richard and Julie Robinson joined Kathryn and Murphy and me for a crossing of Cross Fell, taking in the summits of Little and Great Dunn Fells, including the North Atlantic aircraft radar station 'The Mighty Dunn'

Deep snow, white-outs, streams, rivers and bogs, howling winds and freezing conditions ensured we had a very demanding and interesting days walking ha ha. 

Oh well, it was a charity challenge; dreamt up by the ever active Jules to help 'Everest 4 Heroes' on its way to achieving its grand target of 200k for 'Help for Heroes' 

The adventure was certainly a fantastic one, 9 hours 10 minutes and 28km's (17.4 miles) and over 720m of height gain, raising over £300 for 'Everest 4 Heroes' 

Thank you very much Richard and Julie x

Damon's Weekly Update

A busy couple of weeks, the cash total for Everest now stands at £360 so only another £199, 640 to go....mmm, more work required from the team me thinks.

Our Press release has now been sent, and our letters for help and support are now slowly but surely heading out of the office.

I had a great ride around the vale of Bowland with Beth last week (my birthday treat) and I think that all my swimming, healthy eating and training are slowly paying dividends...I managed to keep sight of her for most of the 40 odd kms!

Over the weekend Kathryn and I spent an active break in Norfolk and Norwich staying at Dunston Hall, swimming and cycling and buying some superb wines from Adnams cellars.  The Thetford red route was an interesting Mountain bike route, 13 miles of flat forest trails and not really a Mountain Bike route (would be the same grade as the car park on the Marrin Train in Wales or Grizedale / Whinlatter in the Lakes) but good training non the less.

Also managed to squeeze in a radio interview with BBC Radio York on Valentines day too, thats now on the home page if you need cheering up.

This Friday I am heading up to Scotland with Nicky Hey to hopefully climb some good ice for the weekend so fingers crossed for poor weather.

Ive also now got some fantastic fund raising help in the form of Richard and Julie Robinson from South Yorkshire who have got their local school to take us on as their charity project for the next year or so in exchange for a motivational presentation and talk etc on our challenge. Great news.

Ice Climbing in Rjuikan Jan 2010 (Phil Allen)

Rjukan is located 175 km west of Oslo, 370 km east of Stavanger, or 290 km east of Haugesund.
The quickest option is to fly to Oslo or Haugesund, then take the direct bus from Oslo or hire a car (3-4 hours drive). Check out http://www.ryanair.com/ for cheap flights.You will need a car to get around the area if you do not want to be limited to the routes close to the town centre and the vast majority of the routes are all within 20 km of the town.
Winter driving in Norway is very different to driving in the UK. They do not use salt on the roads but grit. Norwegian law states that your car must be fitted with tyres that give adequate grip. It also states that if conditions dictate, then all drivers must use snow chains - it is therefore advisable to carry a set (for 2 tyres) in the boot.
The law does not state that you must use winter tyres, but it is advisable and if you do they must have at least 3mm of tread.

Choose accommodation near the town to avoid driving long distances each day. Check the Rjukan tourist office at http://www.visitrjukan.com/ for information and links.

The town is located in a deep narrow valley, which doesn't see the sun for 5 months of the year and its return is celebrated at the end of March with processions, brass bands and fancy dress parades taking place in the streets.
It is one of Europe's best areas for ice climbing with more than 150 single and multi-pitch ice routes (17 being the longest), with short approaches and a very reliable season, making it a popular destination for ice climbers from all over the world.

Due to Norway’s position in northern Europe and its exposure to the North and Arctic seas, it produces excellent conditions and a long ice climbing season. Precipitation during the autumn from low pressure weather systems give the amount of water required and then long periods of cold weather due to high pressure systems sitting over the land mass during winter driving cold air down from the Arctic, produce fantastic frozen natural waterfalls which can be up to several meters thick. There is a rumour of the construction of man-made waterfalls by piping water into suitable run-offs.
Visiting the area in December and January can be very cold, with daytime temperatures regularly below -10 degrees and only 6-7 hours of daylight. So an early start time and multiple layers are strongly recommended during this period.
It is also very advisable in these temperatures not to attempt to put anything metal near or into your mouth, as a few individuals have learned to their cost!
Visiting in February and March gives the advantage of slightly higher temperatures and more daylight, but in late March the ice falls on the south facing hillsides are usually gone due to the sun hitting the hillside.

The first routes in are climbable from late October (high on Gaustatoppen) and there are many routes still in great condition (on the north facing side of the valley) until early April.
The Norwegian grading system differs to the UK and Winter Ice routes are generally regarded as being one grade lower than Scottish ice climbing. The excellent Rockfax guidebook ‘Heavy Water’ describes 71 waterfalls across the area with full-colour photo-topos, detailed maps and at £19.95 is money well spent.

A few kilometers west of the town, the valley narrows to a deep canyon where the famous ‘Vemork’ power plant is located and where most of the best routes are. To appreciate the events that occurred here during World War 2 you must watch the film ‘Heroes of Telemark’ before you visit.
Be warned however!...the excellent ‘Bakveien’ WI 4 climb up to the powerplant is used as a deposit chute for the snow cleared from the car park.
This makes for much amusement if you are observing, but slightly disturbing and potentially dangerous if just about to attempt the crux pitch on the route, as happened to one of our group and another pair of Norweigen climbers the day before and nobody likes snow down the back of the neck!

Altogether, Rjukan offers a superb area for the ice climbing beginner, with gentle training slopes and easily top roped climbs. Easy access and walk-ins, with guaranteed weather and conditions make for an excellent time.
For the more experienced or adventurous, there are several climbs at every grade possible. The reknowned ‘Frihetssoyla’ WI 5, an impressive 80m free standing cigar is not for the nervous and was aptly re-named ‘Pantssoyla’ by one individual!

If you get worn out ice climbing then ‘Gaustatoppen’ offers easier winter mountaineering. At 1881m, it allows views of 1/6 of Norway on a clear day and across the formidable Hardangervidda plateau.
The top is a narrow ridge running SSE-NNW and the major flanks offer good grade I-II ground, both gullies (up to 400m in length) and mixed ground.
Watch out for high winds, predominantly from the north-west, as the ridge is very narrow in places with steep drops off to both sides.
At the SSE end of the summit ridge there is a hut which has a small winter room open all year round.
In the area there is also skiing at the ski centre and endless opportunities for snowshoeing or cross country and downhill skiing.
The local swimming pool with steam room, sauna and hot tubs is an excellent way to spend a few hours unwinding after a day bashing ice and with a timed water slide making for great entertainment (a personal best of 7.96 seconds).
There are several good restaurants and bars in the area, but be warned that your hard earned pound will be severely stretched by the Norwegian prices and £5 for a pint of beer is not unusual.

Great Weekend in N Yorkshire

Ive just had a fantastic weekends training on my own doorstep - The Yorkshire Dales. 

Saturday was spent on a quick jaunt around the popular peak of Ingleborough in the Yorkshire Dales. 

A fantastic cycle ride on quiet well maintained roads covering approx 17 miles of beautiful scenic countryside weaving between the well travelled summits of Ingleborough, Pen y Ghent and Whernside, The well known summits of the Yorkshire 3 Peaks challenge.

With the Pen y Ghent cafe in Horton in Ribblesdale and two good coffee shops in Ingleton the route is perfectly serviced for a family friendly day out, not to mention the many first class pubs on route as well.

Sunday was another fantastic winters day, high pressure, blue skies and bitterly cold.  A  fantastic walk over the lunar landscape of Cross Fell in the Northern Pennines, starting at the hill top cafe of Hartside and walking 11km over the  frozen snow to the lofty plateau of Cross fell at 892m, a great view point and the highest peak in England outside of the Lake District.

Damon & Beth training on the Aonach Eagach & Ben Nevis Jan 23/24 2010

Damon and Beth recently enjoyed a fantastic winter outing in Scotland climbing on both the Aonach Eagach ridge and also on the flanks of Ben Nevis.  A fantastic weekend with perfect climbing conditions. 

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