Rjukan is located 175 km west of Oslo, 370 km east of Stavanger, or 290 km east of Haugesund.
The quickest option is to fly to Oslo or Haugesund, then take the direct bus from Oslo or hire a car (3-4 hours drive). Check out http://www.ryanair.com/ for cheap flights.You will need a car to get around the area if you do not want to be limited to the routes close to the town centre and the vast majority of the routes are all within 20 km of the town.
Winter driving in Norway is very different to driving in the UK. They do not use salt on the roads but grit. Norwegian law states that your car must be fitted with tyres that give adequate grip. It also states that if conditions dictate, then all drivers must use snow chains - it is therefore advisable to carry a set (for 2 tyres) in the boot.
The law does not state that you must use winter tyres, but it is advisable and if you do they must have at least 3mm of tread.
Choose accommodation near the town to avoid driving long distances each day. Check the Rjukan tourist office at http://www.visitrjukan.com/ for information and links.
The town is located in a deep narrow valley, which doesn't see the sun for 5 months of the year and its return is celebrated at the end of March with processions, brass bands and fancy dress parades taking place in the streets.
It is one of Europe's best areas for ice climbing with more than 150 single and multi-pitch ice routes (17 being the longest), with short approaches and a very reliable season, making it a popular destination for ice climbers from all over the world.
Due to Norway’s position in northern Europe and its exposure to the North and Arctic seas, it produces excellent conditions and a long ice climbing season. Precipitation during the autumn from low pressure weather systems give the amount of water required and then long periods of cold weather due to high pressure systems sitting over the land mass during winter driving cold air down from the Arctic, produce fantastic frozen natural waterfalls which can be up to several meters thick. There is a rumour of the construction of man-made waterfalls by piping water into suitable run-offs.
Visiting the area in December and January can be very cold, with daytime temperatures regularly below -10 degrees and only 6-7 hours of daylight. So an early start time and multiple layers are strongly recommended during this period.
It is also very advisable in these temperatures not to attempt to put anything metal near or into your mouth, as a few individuals have learned to their cost!
Visiting in February and March gives the advantage of slightly higher temperatures and more daylight, but in late March the ice falls on the south facing hillsides are usually gone due to the sun hitting the hillside.
The first routes in are climbable from late October (high on Gaustatoppen) and there are many routes still in great condition (on the north facing side of the valley) until early April.
The Norwegian grading system differs to the UK and Winter Ice routes are generally regarded as being one grade lower than Scottish ice climbing. The excellent Rockfax guidebook ‘Heavy Water’ describes 71 waterfalls across the area with full-colour photo-topos, detailed maps and at £19.95 is money well spent.
A few kilometers west of the town, the valley narrows to a deep canyon where the famous ‘Vemork’ power plant is located and where most of the best routes are. To appreciate the events that occurred here during World War 2 you must watch the film ‘Heroes of Telemark’ before you visit.
Be warned however!...the excellent ‘Bakveien’ WI 4 climb up to the powerplant is used as a deposit chute for the snow cleared from the car park.
This makes for much amusement if you are observing, but slightly disturbing and potentially dangerous if just about to attempt the crux pitch on the route, as happened to one of our group and another pair of Norweigen climbers the day before and nobody likes snow down the back of the neck!
Altogether, Rjukan offers a superb area for the ice climbing beginner, with gentle training slopes and easily top roped climbs. Easy access and walk-ins, with guaranteed weather and conditions make for an excellent time.
For the more experienced or adventurous, there are several climbs at every grade possible. The reknowned ‘Frihetssoyla’ WI 5, an impressive 80m free standing cigar is not for the nervous and was aptly re-named ‘Pantssoyla’ by one individual!
If you get worn out ice climbing then ‘Gaustatoppen’ offers easier winter mountaineering. At 1881m, it allows views of 1/6 of Norway on a clear day and across the formidable Hardangervidda plateau.
The top is a narrow ridge running SSE-NNW and the major flanks offer good grade I-II ground, both gullies (up to 400m in length) and mixed ground.
Watch out for high winds, predominantly from the north-west, as the ridge is very narrow in places with steep drops off to both sides.
At the SSE end of the summit ridge there is a hut which has a small winter room open all year round.
In the area there is also skiing at the ski centre and endless opportunities for snowshoeing or cross country and downhill skiing.
The local swimming pool with steam room, sauna and hot tubs is an excellent way to spend a few hours unwinding after a day bashing ice and with a timed water slide making for great entertainment (a personal best of 7.96 seconds).
There are several good restaurants and bars in the area, but be warned that your hard earned pound will be severely stretched by the Norwegian prices and £5 for a pint of beer is not unusual.
